10-24-2008, 07:52 PM
10-24-2008, 08:01 PM
Quote:How long to make one plate Cesar?
Just made my first one. Took my half an hour to an hour excluding tinning.
But this was my first one, so I think it will go faster next time.
10-24-2008, 10:17 PM
Yes, almost one hour each one.
Jurjen, put pictures, please...
Jurjen, put pictures, please...
10-24-2008, 10:24 PM
Wow! Great work, and thanks for sharing the information , Cesar!!
By the way, that black metal "punch" you showed in your picture is what is called a "nail set" here in the U.S.
By the way, that black metal "punch" you showed in your picture is what is called a "nail set" here in the U.S.
10-25-2008, 01:44 AM
What is the best way to put holes through a plate? A drill bit doesnt work for me, it just spins and slips on the metal. Also, did you make or buy your lead block? I'm sure I could make one since lead melts so easy.
10-25-2008, 04:16 AM
Hey Jared, check some tool stores or autostores in your area, you're looking for what's called a metal punch. It's hand held and punches holes like a leather punch does.
10-25-2008, 05:56 AM
Wow, thats a simple name. I'll check the hardware store soon so I dont screw up a plate with a nail :lol:
10-25-2008, 08:13 AM
Quote:What is the best way to put holes through a plate? A drill bit doesnt work for me, it just spins and slips on the metal. Also, did you make or buy your lead block? I'm sure I could make one since lead melts so easy.
I don't prefer using lead, as it's not safe to use (and melting it can cause you serious health problems, so I would advise at least don't melt it yourself!) So I use layers of leather for the small work and a leather bag filled with wet sand for the 'deeper' parts.
Also when drilling, (at sports where you can't use your metal punch for instance), you always need to mark a little hole first, to prevent your drill from slipping away. This can be done by a centre punch. I used to use a 'normal' one which I gave a blow with a hammer, but now I use a 'automatic centre punch' which work more easy and secure.
10-25-2008, 10:53 AM
The plates are magnificent! Well done!
I have two questions for you:
-what kind of brass balls did you use? Where did you buy them?
-what kind of tinning paste did you use? Do I understand correctly that you painted on the tinpaste, heated the tinpaste directly with a torch and you did not wipe the hot tin with a rag?
Vale,
I have two questions for you:
-what kind of brass balls did you use? Where did you buy them?
-what kind of tinning paste did you use? Do I understand correctly that you painted on the tinpaste, heated the tinpaste directly with a torch and you did not wipe the hot tin with a rag?
Vale,
10-25-2008, 12:38 PM
Jef,
I have used some brass balls used for jewelry, for necklaces making, and so. There are drilled so you only have to put a brass bar inside and solder it.
I have buyed that:
http://www.reenactors-shop.de/product_i ... -Stk-.html
But probably there are a lot of shops where youcan buy it.
The solder paste i have used is one standard. I can't wipe with the rag, to avoid cover the parts that have to be brass looking. Because that, the surface looks a little mate, so we have to polish it with the iron wool.
I have used some brass balls used for jewelry, for necklaces making, and so. There are drilled so you only have to put a brass bar inside and solder it.
I have buyed that:
http://www.reenactors-shop.de/product_i ... -Stk-.html
But probably there are a lot of shops where youcan buy it.
The solder paste i have used is one standard. I can't wipe with the rag, to avoid cover the parts that have to be brass looking. Because that, the surface looks a little mate, so we have to polish it with the iron wool.
10-25-2008, 05:38 PM
Thanks for the answer Cesar! I have never found a suitable lead free tinning paste. All the tinning paste that is sold over here contains a lot of lead and will not give a shiny layer. What is the brand of your paste?
vale,
vale,
10-26-2008, 02:19 PM
Quote:What is the best way to put holes through a plate? A drill bit doesnt work for me, it just spins and slips on the metal. Also, did you make or buy your lead block? I'm sure I could make one since lead melts so easy.
To stop plate spinning on your pillar drill. Use a block of wood. Punch positions of the holes in your plate.. Tap 4 small nails into the block so you can slide your plate into position. You can then safely drill your holes without decapitating your fingers..... :wink:
10-26-2008, 02:42 PM
To drill the plates, i have mark with the punch the place and then drill. You have to put some wax or oil in the point to avoid overheating of the drill bit, and to lubricate. And use good quality bits! And i subjetc the plate with a tweezer or a flat jaw pliers to avoid hurt my fingers. Not only cutting, when you make the drilling, the brass get a lot of heat.
The lead block is easy to make. To garanty the safe of his use, don't breath the fumes when melting it. And wash your hands every time you use it.
The lead block is easy to make. To garanty the safe of his use, don't breath the fumes when melting it. And wash your hands every time you use it.
10-26-2008, 05:28 PM
Jared
You can use one of those "nail sets" to punch holes. It may likely put a dent in the metal where you punched - but you should be able to gently hammer that dent flat, using a peening hammer and some stiff leather as a buffer between the metal and hammer
You may still need to file one side, or both sides, where the hole has some sharp bits on it.
You should still be able to drill - get yourself some leather gloves and hold down the piece, or better yet, get yourself some clamps at the hardware store - big C-clamps and welding clamps may work well. (you may need to pad the ends, or place some leather between to not scratch up the metal), as well as pliers, channel-lock pliers and the like. There are a lot of spring-loaded clamps and holders out there, too.
Musketear's idea of having a block of wood with pins to hold the plate is a great idea, too!
You can use one of those "nail sets" to punch holes. It may likely put a dent in the metal where you punched - but you should be able to gently hammer that dent flat, using a peening hammer and some stiff leather as a buffer between the metal and hammer
You may still need to file one side, or both sides, where the hole has some sharp bits on it.
You should still be able to drill - get yourself some leather gloves and hold down the piece, or better yet, get yourself some clamps at the hardware store - big C-clamps and welding clamps may work well. (you may need to pad the ends, or place some leather between to not scratch up the metal), as well as pliers, channel-lock pliers and the like. There are a lot of spring-loaded clamps and holders out there, too.
Musketear's idea of having a block of wood with pins to hold the plate is a great idea, too!
10-26-2008, 07:15 PM
Great work, César.
Your punch is exactly like one I use. But the chasing tools for the silversmiths use to have no edges:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-of-30-chasing-t ... 240%3A1318
So, I soft the edges of my punches with a Dremel and the final work is better, especially when you are making something figurative, not a geometrical shape.
By the way, I had seen an artisan from Cádiz using pitch (“pezâ€
Your punch is exactly like one I use. But the chasing tools for the silversmiths use to have no edges:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-of-30-chasing-t ... 240%3A1318
So, I soft the edges of my punches with a Dremel and the final work is better, especially when you are making something figurative, not a geometrical shape.
By the way, I had seen an artisan from Cádiz using pitch (“pezâ€