Full Version: Making a General Greek greaves
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Hi all
Here a impression of new Greek greaves in the making. It is based on Peter Connoly book and is supposed to be a generalised form. Your inputs would be great.


If the middle picture is that shown by Peter Connoly then I find that the top end of your greave not to be the correct shape and is over large, then there is the other aspect about making greaves and that is where these things have to fit a particular person therefore how many sizes are you going to produce that will be correct for people of different leg lengths.
In addition,

It looks as if you are using plate that is way too thick.

The holes around the edge of the original are for the attachment of a lightly padded liner.
I am developing this greave in 18 guage material. What would you suggest ?
Extant examples are usually well under 1mm thick. Plate this light would also make it easier to spring open and fit around the calf. This feature, as well as a padded liner, will mean that you wouldn't have to be so precise with the fit.
I have aquestion about this greave. Normally, I would believe that the muscle would only be on one side of the grave- not both. Is this assumption correct. Right now, it is protruding from both sides.

The shape has further been corrected.

I have aquestion about this greave. Normally, I would believe that the muscle would only be on one side of the grave- not both. Is this assumption correct. Right now, it is protruding from both sides.

The shape has further been corrected.

Hello. It is a good first try but needs a lot of improvement.
The thickness of the originals unfortunately vary very much within the greave itself, with it being very thin in the main body and thickening much near the edges. This made for a light greave that retained its shape when you opened it to wear. A good compromise would be to start with 1mm metal and let it become thinner with shaping and polishing.

The shape of the knee cover is still too wide. Also it shouldn't have turned edges neither on the top or bottom. just the holes for the lining.
The lining was simple leather turned on the outside. There are no traces of other padding, the only organic materials are leather stuck on the bronze.

The calf muscle should only be on the inner side, not the outer. However the outer side also has a different curve, longer and less steep.

The lower part of the greave should cover the whole leg around the ankle, like the calf. You must make the greave fit the thinner legs snugly. This will also ensure that it fits the bigger legs too, since the bronze is springy.

Of utmost importance is to achieve the overal curve of the greave as we see it from the front. Our bone is not completely straight, nor is the knee alighned with the bone. It's true that this curve differs from person to person, but certainly nobody has a streight leg.

Last but not least, note how the bottom of the greave flares outwards so prevent the metal digging into the foot.

Here are two examples, one from Olympia and the other from the Guttman collection.



This is a very useful photo of some of the greaves from Olympia.

I have a problem with the holes at the around the greaves- maybe some will say not good enough reason.

The catch is if I apply leather in the back and stitch in in front, I mean threads coming to the front- when one polishes these for final packing, these tend to get cut off under the buffing wheel, or get so dirty, that you gotta start cleaning all over again. Being brass, it naturally catches marks very very quickly.

Any suggestions. Can we do away with the holes altogether, and just stick leather to the back ?

Cover them with tape just for the polishing?
Gagan, You might consider giving the greave a thin coat of clear lacquer something that will protect it from tarnishing after polishing and then once this is dry add the leather....
I will see what we can do in production stage- lacquer is not a good idea. It does crack when you try to put the greave on and off. I have done that in the past.

Here is an updated greave.

Gagan, Well theres more then one type of lacquer available but I dont know what you have access too...
Fully polish before fitting the leather edge and ignore any tarnishing during this process....
When finished give the brass a quick polish by hand, this should be no more time spent then polishing it on a wheel.. or at least not much... Duraglit wadding or a silver cloth is what I would use but any suitable light metal polish should do, finish with a light smear of gun oil as a protective coat..
Gagan, these look good, however would you be so kind as to post front, profile and back views of the greaves? it's the only way t o have a good grasp of the shape, and prevent any possible mistakes. For instance the lower part looks a bit too wide, but it is hard to tell from the above photo.
Also i would advise against any over layer on the bronze. It always looks wrong, and most good reenactors spend time to remove it, It is much better to receive a well oiled item, or even one that is a bit tarnished, than a laquered.
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