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Remember though that this scale is an approximation because weight is dependent on density not thickness, so don't take these numbers as absolutes.
Also it's important to realize that there can be significant differences between the weight vs. thickness and durability of leather depending on how the skin is tanned- veg-tanned, chrome-tanned, alum-tanned, etc. The former is usually the toughest and best choice, but it's also by far the most expensive. Unless your group has a rule against using other than veg-tanned leather, it's perfectly functional and looks okay as long as you properly color the edges (which will be very light compared to the faces). It is generally a bit less-durable, more flexible, and cheaper, but you can't tool it.
If you're shopping around for leather, remember that sometimes leather is coated with a synthetic material to give it a uniform, clean surface that is water-resistent and colored- while this can be removed, it's a big pain only worth doing if you get a SUPER deal I'd think. You really want a 'naked' hide (no coatings), that's top grain (epidermis side intact), not a 'split' or a 'suede'.
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Very good points Matt. Thank you for posting it. Good for us all to know.
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Excellent info guys! what thickness would be good for a hamata subarmalis?
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I would make that out of quilted linen, although I might add leather reinforcements on the shoulder and chest.
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That was my plan Crispus, but I am still not finding a source for leather, and all the old details are on my old computer!
Just found my last hope locally again, but they only sell hair covered hides! :?
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Thanks Peronis!
Any Idea which weight would be suitable for subarmalis and perhaps pturges?
Sulla also posted a link to a great uk site which looks extremely useful!
Visne partem mei capere? Comminus agamus! * Me semper rogo, Quid faceret Iulius Caesar? * Confidence is a good thing! Overconfidence is too much of a good thing.
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